Metal flake paint is the hallmark of custom automotive culture, bringing a vibrant, multi-dimensional look to cars and motorcycles. Originally popularized in the 1960s and 70s, this style of painting involves suspending small metallic particles in a clear carrier to create a finish that sparkles and shifts in the light. Whether you are restoring a vintage chopper or customizing a classic lowrider, achieving that deep, glass-like finish requires the right materials and a specific technique.
Understanding how to select, apply, and finish metal flake is essential for any DIY enthusiast looking to replicate a period-correct aesthetic. This guide will walk you through the types of flakes available, the tools you need, and the step-by-step process to ensure your project looks professional and stands the test of time.
Understanding Metal Flake Sizes and Types
Before you begin painting, you must choose the right size of flake for your project. Metal flakes are generally measured in fractions of an inch or microns. The size you choose significantly impacts the final texture and the amount of work required to level the surface.
- Micro Flake (.004 to .008): These are very fine particles that provide a subtle shimmer. They are easier to spray through standard paint guns and require fewer layers of clear coat to smooth out.
- Mini Flake (.015): This is the most common size for a classic vintage look. It provides a distinct sparkle that is visible from a distance but is still manageable for most intermediate painters.
- Large or “Jumbo” Flake (.025 and up): These large particles create a bold, “bass boat” style finish. They require specialized equipment and many layers of clear coat to bury the texture.
In addition to size, you must consider the material. Most modern flakes are made from polyester coated in aluminum or holographic film. These are lightweight, UV-resistant, and won’t fade as quickly as older metal-based flakes.
Essential Tools for Metal Flake Application
Applying metal flake is different from spraying standard metallic or pearl paints. Because the flakes are physical solids, they can easily clog a standard spray gun or settle at the bottom of the paint cup.
Spray Gun Requirements
For micro flakes, a standard 1.3mm or 1.4mm tip may work, but for .015 flake and larger, you generally need a larger fluid tip. A 1.8mm to 2.5mm tip is recommended to allow the flakes to pass through without bridging or clogging the nozzle.
Agitation Methods
Flakes are heavy and will sink. Some painters use a gravity-feed gun with a small marble or agitator ball inside the cup to help keep the flakes suspended. Others prefer specialized tools designed specifically for flake application.
Dry Flake Applicators
A popular alternative to mixing flake in clear coat is using a dry flake applicator, often referred to as a “flake buster.” This tool uses air pressure to blow dry flake onto a wet clear base. This method allows for a much higher density of flake and reduces the risk of the particles “shingling” or laying flat in an unattractive way.
Step-by-Step Application Guide
Achieving a professional-grade vintage finish is a multi-stage process. Patience is your most important tool, as rushing the drying times or the sanding process will lead to a dull or uneven finish.
1. Surface Preparation
Start with a perfectly smooth surface. Metal flake will hide some minor imperfections, but it will also highlight uneven bodywork. Apply a high-quality primer and sand it smooth. Most vintage flake jobs start with a solid base color, often black or silver, depending on the desired final hue.
2. Applying the Base Coat
Apply your base color evenly. If you are using a silver flake, a silver base coat is ideal because it ensures that any small gaps in the flake coverage won’t be noticeable. If you want a deep, colored look, you might apply a color-matched base before the flake.
3. Spraying the Flake
If you are mixing flake into a carrier (like an intercoat clear), keep your passes consistent. Overlapping by 50% to 75% is standard. If you are using a dry applicator, spray a “wet” bed of clear coat first, then immediately follow with the dry flake while the clear is still tacky.
4. The “Burying” Process
This is the most time-consuming part. Once the flake is applied, the surface will feel like sandpaper. You must apply several heavy coats of high-solids clear coat to “bury” the flake. It is common to apply 3 to 4 coats, let them dry, and then assess the depth.
5. Leveling and Sanding
Once the clear coat has fully cured, sand the surface with 400-600 grit sandpaper. Be extremely careful not to sand through the clear and hit the flake itself. If you “sand the flake,” you will ruin the color and create silver spots that are impossible to fix without respraying. After leveling, apply another 2 to 3 coats of clear for a deep, mirror-like finish.
Common Challenges and Pro Tips
Applying metal flake can be tricky for beginners. One common issue is “tiger stripping,” which occurs when the flake is applied unevenly, creating visible lines. To avoid this, maintain a consistent distance from the surface and keep your spray gun moving at a steady speed.
Another challenge is cleaning. Metal flake gets everywhere. If you are painting in a shared garage, be aware that the tiny particles can drift and contaminate other paint jobs. Always use a dedicated spray gun for flake if possible, or perform an incredibly thorough cleaning of your equipment immediately after use.
Safety First
Always wear a high-quality respirator. The polyester particles in metal flake are harmful if inhaled, and the high-solids clear coats used to bury them contain isocyanates which require proper ventilation and personal protective equipment.
Conclusion
Creating a vintage metal flake finish is a rewarding project that transforms any vehicle into a piece of rolling art. By choosing the right flake size, using the proper equipment, and taking the time to properly bury and level the clear coat, you can achieve a professional result that captures the spirit of classic custom culture. Remember that the key to a great flake job is in the preparation and the final polishing stages. For more tips on custom automotive painting and DIY home restoration projects, explore our other helpful guides to build your skills and tackle your next project with confidence.