For those wandering through the modern waterfront of Oakland’s Jack London Square, a small, weathered wooden structure stands as a striking contrast to the surrounding glass and steel. This is Heinold’s First and Last Chance Saloon, an establishment that has remained largely unchanged since it first opened its doors in 1883. It is a place where the floor is crooked, the walls tell stories of the sea, and the air seems thick with the history of literary giants and weary sailors. Visiting this saloon is not just about grabbing a drink; it is about stepping into a time capsule that captures the essence of early California maritime life. In this guide, we will explore the history, the literary connections, and the unique features that make this landmark a must-visit destination.
The Historical Origins of a Waterfront Icon
The story of Heinold’s begins with John Heinold, a man who saw potential in the rough-and-tumble environment of the Oakland estuary. In the late 19th century, the area was a hub for the whaling industry and international trade. Heinold purchased a small structure that had previously served as a bunkhouse for workers. Interestingly, the building itself was constructed using the timbers of an old whaling ship called the Umatilla. This seafaring DNA is visible in every corner of the bar, from the sturdy beams to the compact, cabin-like feel of the interior.
Because the building was made from ship materials, it was already seasoned for the damp, salty air of the waterfront. This durability has helped it survive for over 140 years, outlasting many of the more formal buildings that once stood nearby. Today, it remains one of the oldest commercial buildings in Oakland that is still used for its original purpose.
Understanding the “First and Last Chance” Name
The name of the saloon is one of its most intriguing features and refers to its strategic location near the ferry slips. During the late 1800s, ferries were the primary mode of transportation between Oakland and San Francisco. For sailors and travelers heading out to sea or across the bay, the saloon was a significant landmark. The name carries a dual meaning that reflected the daily lives of its patrons.
For those heading out to sea for months at a time, Heinold’s was their last chance to enjoy a drink and some earthly comforts before the long, difficult journey. Conversely, for those arriving back in port, it was the first chance to celebrate their return to land. The name also held weight during periods when liquor laws differed between the two cities, making it a vital stop for commuters looking to enjoy a beverage before the rules changed at their destination.
The Literary Legacy of Jack London
Perhaps no figure is more closely associated with the saloon than the legendary American author Jack London. As a young boy, London lived a difficult life on the Oakland waterfront, working as an oyster pirate and a sailor. He found a sanctuary in Heinold’s Saloon, which provided him with more than just shelter. Johnny Heinold became a mentor to the young London, recognizing his intelligence and potential early on.
From Patron to Protagonist
Heinold recognized that the boy had a thirst for knowledge and even lent him the money he needed to attend high school and university. The influences of the saloon are scattered throughout London’s bibliography. The colorful characters he met at the bar—harpooners, gold seekers, and world travelers—became the basis for characters in his most famous novels, such as The Sea-Wolf and The Call of the Wild. His semi-autobiographical novel, John Barleycorn, mentions the saloon by name, describing it as a place of intellectual awakening. In 1998, the saloon was officially designated as a National Literary Landmark, honoring its role in shaping American literature.
Surviving the Great 1906 Earthquake
One of the most physically striking aspects of Heinold’s is its floor, which slants at a dramatic angle. This is not a result of poor construction or age, but a direct consequence of the 1906 San Francisco earthquake. While many buildings in Oakland were damaged or destroyed, Heinold’s survived, but the ground beneath it shifted significantly. The pilings, which were driven into the marshy shoreline, settled unevenly, causing the entire structure to tilt.
A Preservation of Disaster
Rather than repairing the floor and leveling the building, the Heinold family chose to leave it exactly as it was. This decision turned the bar into a living museum of the disaster. Walking across the room today requires a bit of balance, as the slope is steep enough to make you feel like you are on a ship at sea. To add to the historical atmosphere, the original clock on the wall remains frozen at 5:18, the exact time the tremors began on that April morning. This commitment to preservation allows visitors to feel the impact of history in a very literal way.
What to See Inside the Saloon
The interior of Heinold’s is a treasure trove for anyone interested in maritime history or vintage Americana. Because the building has never been modernized, it retains many original features that have disappeared elsewhere. Every item on the wall has a story, and the staff is often happy to share the lore associated with the various artifacts.
Authentic Gas Lighting
The saloon is still lit by the original gas lamps that were installed in the 1880s. While they have been updated to use electricity for safety, the fixtures themselves are original. They cast a warm, flickering light that enhances the historic atmosphere and makes the modern world outside feel miles away. This lighting, combined with the dark wood and low ceilings, creates an intimate environment that encourages conversation and reflection.
A Gallery of Maritime History
Every inch of the walls and even the ceiling is covered in history. There are photos of the “Tall Ships” that once filled the Oakland harbor, old maps of the estuary, and portraits of the Heinold family. One of the most unique traditions is the collection of paper currency from around the world that is pinned to the walls. These bills were often left by sailors departing for sea, intended as a “tab” for their return or simply as a memento of their visit. Some of the bills date back decades, representing countries and currencies that no longer exist.
Planning Your Visit to Heinold’s
If you are planning to visit this historic site, there are a few practical details to keep in mind to ensure you have the best experience. The saloon is a popular destination for both locals and tourists, so timing your visit can help you avoid the largest crowds.
- Location: The saloon is located at 48 Webster Street in Oakland, right on the water in Jack London Square.
- Transportation: The most scenic way to arrive is via the San Francisco Bay Ferry. It is also easily accessible by AC Transit or a short walk from the 12th Street BART station.
- Atmosphere: This is a casual, “no-frills” establishment. It is small and can get crowded, especially on weekend afternoons.
- Payment: While many modern establishments are moving away from cash, it is always helpful to have some on hand, though most major credit cards are now accepted.
Keep in mind that this is a historic site, so do not expect modern luxuries like high-speed Wi-Fi or television screens. The focus here is on the history, the atmosphere, and the social experience of visiting a 19th-century pub.
Exploring the Surrounding Area
To make a full day of your visit, take some time to explore the rest of Jack London Square. The area has undergone significant redevelopment and offers a variety of activities for all ages. You can see a replica of the log cabin Jack London lived in during his time in the Klondike, which was moved to this location and rebuilt using original materials. There are also numerous dining options, from modern seafood restaurants to classic diners, all within walking distance of the saloon. For those interested in naval history, the USS Potomac, which served as Franklin D. Roosevelt’s “Floating White House,” is often docked nearby and available for tours.
Conclusion
Heinold’s First and Last Chance Saloon is a rare survivor of old California and a cornerstone of Oakland’s cultural landscape. From its ship-timber walls to its earthquake-tilted floors, every element of the building tells a story of resilience, adventure, and the literary spirit. It offers a tangible connection to the past that is hard to find in today’s rapidly changing world. Whether you are a fan of Jack London’s work or simply someone who appreciates unique history, a visit to this saloon provides a truly unforgettable experience. If you enjoyed learning about this historic landmark, consider exploring our other articles on historic travel destinations and local culture to plan your next adventure.