Growing trees from cuttings is one of the simplest and most rewarding ways to create new plants. A cutting is a piece of stem or root taken from a parent tree and encouraged to grow its own roots. Because the new tree is a genetic copy of the parent, it will look and grow almost exactly like the tree it came from.
This guide explains how cuttings work, which type to use, and the steps to follow from start to finish. It also covers how to care for cuttings while roots form and how to fix the most common problems.
How Growing Trees from Cuttings Works
A cutting carries living cells from the parent tree. When the cut end is kept in a moist, warm place with the right amount of light, those cells can develop into new roots. This process is called rooting.
Some trees root within a few weeks. Others take several months. Success usually comes down to three things: the type of cutting you take, the time of year, and how well you control moisture and temperature.
The Main Types of Cuttings
Hardwood cuttings
Taken from mature, woody stems while the tree is dormant, usually in late autumn or winter. These are the easiest cuttings for beginners because they need little attention and can be kept outdoors.
Softwood cuttings
Taken from soft, new growth in late spring or early summer. They root quickly but dry out fast, so they need high humidity.
Semi-hardwood cuttings
Taken in mid to late summer, when the current season’s growth has started to firm up. They sit between the other two types in both timing and difficulty.
Root cuttings
Some trees can be grown from short sections of root instead of stem. This suits species that naturally send up new shoots from their roots.
What You Will Need
- Sharp, clean pruning shears or a knife — dull blades crush the stem and invite rot.
- A clean pot or tray with drainage holes
- A light rooting mix — a blend of peat-free compost and perlite or coarse sand works well. Garden soil on its own is too heavy.
- Rooting hormone — a powder or gel that encourages roots to form. It is optional but helpful for trees that are harder to root.
- A clear plastic bag or cover — used to hold in humidity for softwood cuttings
- Water and a spray bottle
When to Take Cuttings
Timing matters more than almost anything else.
- Hardwood: late autumn to midwinter, after the leaves have dropped and the tree is fully dormant.
- Softwood: late spring to early summer, while new shoots are still flexible.
- Semi-hardwood: mid to late summer.
Take cuttings in the morning, when the plant holds the most water. Keep them cool and out of direct sun until you pot them, ideally within an hour or two.
Step-by-Step: Hardwood Cuttings
- Choose healthy growth. Pick a strong stem from the current year’s growth, roughly the thickness of a pencil.
- Cut a length. Make a cutting 15–30 cm long. Cut the bottom end just below a bud and the top just above one. A straight cut at the top and a slanted cut at the bottom helps you remember which end is which.
- Remove the lower leaves. Strip off any leaves or side shoots from the bottom half.
- Dip the base. If you are using rooting hormone, dip the bottom 2–3 cm into it and tap off the excess.
- Insert into the mix. Push the cutting in so that about two-thirds is buried and at least two buds sit above the surface.
- Water well and let it drain.
- Keep it cool. Hardwood cuttings do not need warmth. A shaded, sheltered spot outdoors is fine.
- Wait. Roots may take two to four months. Keep the mix barely moist, never soggy.
Step-by-Step: Softwood and Semi-Hardwood Cuttings
- Cut below a bud. Take a 10–15 cm piece of healthy current-season growth.
- Trim the base just below a bud and remove leaves from the lower third.
- Reduce leaf area. If leaves remain at the top, cut large ones in half. This lowers moisture loss while the cutting has no roots.
- Dip the base in rooting hormone if you have it.
- Plant in a moist rooting mix. Make a hole first so the hormone stays on the stem, then firm the mix around it.
- Cover for humidity. Place a clear bag or cover over the pot. Open it briefly every few days to let in fresh air.
- Provide bright, indirect light and gentle warmth. Aim for around 18–24 °C (65–75 °F). Direct sun will overheat a covered cutting.
- Watch for roots in three to eight weeks.
How to Tell When Roots Have Formed
Do not pull the cutting out to check. Instead, look for these signs:
- New leaves or shoots growing at the top
- Roots appearing at the drainage holes
- Gentle resistance when you tug the stem
When two or three of these signs appear, the cutting is ready for the next step.
Potting Up and Planting Out
Move rooted cuttings into individual pots filled with regular potting compost. Handle the roots carefully, because they break easily.
Keep the young tree in a sheltered spot for a few weeks so it can adjust, then gradually introduce it to more sun and wind. When it is sturdy and well rooted, plant it in its final position. Water regularly for the first year, especially during dry spells.
Troubleshooting Common Problems
- The cutting wilts or shrivels. It is losing water faster than it can take it up. Increase humidity and move it out of direct sun.
- The base turns soft, brown, or smelly. That is rot from too much water. Discard the cutting, use a fresh mix, and water less often.
- Mould grows under the cover. Ventilate more often and remove any dead leaves.
- No roots after a long wait. The cutting may have been taken at the wrong time, kept too cold, or given too little light.
- Leaves turn yellow. This usually points to overwatering or a mix that drains poorly.
Trees That Root Easily — and Ones That Do Not
Some trees root so readily that a cutting can be grown by simply standing it in water. Willows and poplars are well known for this, as are figs and several flowering trees grown for their blooms.
Others are stubborn. Many fruit trees, including apples and pears, do not root reliably from cuttings. For these, buying a young tree or using grafting is usually the better option.
A Few Tips for Better Results
- Take more cuttings than you need. Not every one will root.
- Label each cutting with the date and the tree type.
- Clean your tools between plants to avoid spreading disease.
- Be patient. Slow rooting is normal, not a sign of failure.
Final Thoughts
Growing trees from cuttings comes down to four basics: take the cutting at the right time of year, keep the base moist but never wet, control humidity and light, and wait. Hardwood cuttings in winter are the simplest place to start, while softwood cuttings root faster but need more attention.
Once you have one successful batch, the same method can be repeated on many other trees, turning a single healthy tree into several new ones. If you enjoyed this guide, explore more practical how-to articles on gardening, home care, and everyday problem solving.