For decades, Arnys of Paris stood as a symbol of intellectual elegance and unique French tailoring. Located on the Left Bank of the Seine, this legendary menswear house offered an alternative to the rigid structures of traditional British tailoring. While the brand was eventually acquired and integrated into another luxury house, its influence on men’s fashion remains significant today.
The History of Arnys Paris
Founded in 1933 by the Grimbert family, Arnys established its home at 14 Rue de Sèvres. This location became more than just a clothing store; it was a cultural landmark for the Parisian elite. The shop served as a meeting point for writers, artists, and politicians who sought a style that was sophisticated yet comfortable.
The brand was famously associated with the “Rive Gauche” (Left Bank) aesthetic. Unlike the “Rive Droite” (Right Bank) style, which favored conservative and business-oriented attire, the Left Bank style was creative and academic. Arnys specialized in clothing that allowed for movement and expression, using rich colors and unconventional fabrics.
A Family Tradition
The house was managed by several generations of the Grimbert family. Jean and Michel Grimbert were the final stewards of the brand before its acquisition. They maintained the shop’s reputation for bespoke tailoring and high-quality ready-to-wear collections that focused on craftsmanship over mass production.
The Iconic Forestière Jacket
The most famous item ever produced by Arnys is undoubtedly the Forestière jacket. This garment has a unique history that connects the world of architecture with high fashion. It remains a highly sought-after piece for vintage collectors and menswear enthusiasts.
Designed for Le Corbusier
In 1947, the famous architect Le Corbusier approached Arnys with a specific request. He needed a jacket that would allow him to raise his arms freely to draw and work at his drafting table. He found traditional suit jackets too restrictive for his professional needs.
The resulting design was the Forestière, named after the uniforms of French forest wardens. It featured several distinct characteristics that set it apart from standard blazers:
- Mandarin Collar: A stand-up collar that gave the jacket a scholarly look.
- Pivot Sleeves: Specially constructed armholes that allowed for a full range of motion.
- Patch Pockets: Large, functional pockets that added a touch of casual utility.
- Unstructured Build: A softer construction that lacked the heavy padding found in English suits.
Evolution of the Design
Over the years, the Forestière was produced in a variety of materials. While heavy corduroy and tweed were common for winter, linen and lightweight silk versions were created for warmer months. The jacket became a uniform for the French intelligentsia, signaling that the wearer was a person of thought and action.
The Unique Style Philosophy of Arnys
What made Arnys truly stand out was its rejection of global fashion trends. The brand did not follow the seasonal cycles of Milan or London. Instead, it focused on a consistent philosophy of “comfortable elegance.”
Bold Use of Color
While most luxury menswear brands stayed within a palette of navy, grey, and black, Arnys was known for its daring use of color. It was common to find jackets lined with vibrant purple silk or vests made from burnt orange wool. These colors were used to add a sense of personality and wit to a gentleman’s wardrobe.
Fabric Innovation
The brand often sourced rare fabrics that other houses ignored. They used heavy flannels, ancient madder silks, and unique wool blends. Every material was chosen for its texture and how it would age over time, as Arnys clothes were intended to be worn for decades.
The Acquisition by Berluti
In 2012, the luxury conglomerate LVMH acquired Arnys. The goal was to use the expertise of the Arnys tailors to launch a bespoke clothing line for the shoemaking brand Berluti. This marked the end of Arnys as an independent brand.
What Happened to the Store?
The historic shop at 14 Rue de Sèvres was transformed into the flagship store for Berluti. While the interior was renovated, the spirit of bespoke tailoring continued under the new name. Many of the master tailors who worked for Arnys stayed on to provide their services to Berluti’s clients.
The Legacy Today
Although you can no longer walk into a store and buy a new garment with an Arnys label, the brand’s influence persists. Designers around the world continue to reference the Forestière jacket and the brand’s unique approach to color. For many, Arnys represents a peak of French artisanal skill that has not been replicated.
How to Find Arnys Clothing Today
Because the brand is no longer in production, enthusiasts must turn to the secondary market. Finding an authentic Arnys piece requires patience and a bit of knowledge about what to look for.
The Vintage Market
Online marketplaces and specialized vintage boutiques are the primary sources for Arnys items. When searching, look for the distinctive woven labels that feature the brand’s name in a classic script. Key items to look for include:
- The Forestière Jacket: Check for the specific collar and sleeve construction.
- Silk Ties and Scarves: Known for their intricate patterns and heavy silk weight.
- Waistcoats: Often found in bright colors with high-quality buttons.
- Bespoke Suits: These will usually have a handwritten label inside the pocket with the original owner’s name and date.
Authentication Tips
When buying vintage Arnys, pay close attention to the details. The buttonholes should be hand-stitched, and the linings should be made of high-quality silk or bemberg. Because these clothes were made to last, even older pieces should still feel sturdy and well-constructed.
Conclusion
Arnys of Paris remains a legendary name in the world of menswear, remembered for its intellectual charm and the iconic Forestière jacket. While the brand has transitioned into a new chapter under the Berluti name, its contribution to the “Rive Gauche” style is unforgettable. For those who appreciate clothing that tells a story and offers a unique perspective on elegance, exploring the history of Arnys is a rewarding journey. To learn more about classic style and garment care, explore our other articles on heritage brands and timeless fashion tips.