Scala Dei, located in the heart of the Priorat region in Catalonia, Spain, offers a unique blend of spiritual history and world-class viticulture. Whether you are a history buff interested in the 12th-century Carthusian monastery or a wine enthusiast seeking bold reds, this destination provides a profound experience. This guide will walk you through the history, the wine, and the practical steps for planning your visit to this remote corner of Tarragona.
Understanding the Significance of Scala Dei
The name "Scala Dei" translates to "Ladder to God." According to local legend, a shepherd once saw a ladder reaching from the sky to the top of a pine tree, with angels ascending and descending. This vision marked the spot where the Carthusian monks decided to build their monastery in 1194.
For centuries, the monks of the Cartoixa d’Escaladei ruled over the surrounding villages, introducing the art of winemaking to the region. Today, the site consists of the impressive ruins of the monastery and the historic winery that continues the monks’ legacy. Visitors come here to find peace, history, and some of the best wine in the world.
Exploring the Cartoixa d’Escaladei Monastery
The Cartoixa d’Escaladei was the first Carthusian monastery on the Iberian Peninsula. Its location at the foot of the Montsant mountain range was chosen for its isolation and natural beauty, providing the perfect environment for a life of silence and prayer.
What to See at the Ruins
When you visit the monastery, you are walking through centuries of religious and social history. Although much of the structure fell into ruin after the ecclesiastical land seizures in 1835, significant restoration work has been done.
- The Refitted Monk’s Cell: One of the highlights is a reconstructed cell where a monk would have lived. It includes a small garden, a workshop, and a living area, giving you a clear view of the ascetic lifestyle.
- The Cloisters: Walk through the remains of the three main cloisters. The architecture reflects the transition from Romanesque to Gothic and Renaissance styles.
- The Church: While mostly in ruins, the scale of the church remains impressive, showing the power the Carthusians once held over the Priorat region.
Visitor Information for the Monastery
The monastery is managed by the Catalan Agency for Cultural Heritage. It is open most of the year, but hours vary by season. It is generally closed on Mondays. It is highly recommended to check the official schedule before driving out, as the site is remote.
Discovering Cellers de Scala Dei
Just a short distance from the monastery ruins lies the village of Scala Dei and its famous winery, Cellers de Scala Dei. This winery is widely considered the birthplace of Priorat wine. The current winery still uses some of the original stone buildings where the monks once fermented their grapes.
The Unique Terroir of Priorat
What makes the wine here so special is the soil, known locally as llicorella. This is a dark, slate-like soil that forces the vines to grow deep into the earth to find water. This struggle results in small, concentrated grapes that produce intense, mineral-rich wines.
The primary grapes grown here are Garnacha (Grenache) and Cariñena (Carignan). These varieties thrive in the hot, dry climate of the Priorat and are the backbone of the region’s famous red blends.
The Tasting Experience
Booking a tour at Cellers de Scala Dei is a must for any wine lover. Most tours include a walk through the historic aging cellars, where you can see massive oak barrels stored in cool, ancient stone rooms. You will learn about the traditional methods of winemaking that have been passed down for generations.
A typical tasting includes several of their flagship wines. You can expect to taste the difference between grapes grown on slate soil versus those grown on clay, providing a masterclass in how geography affects flavor.
Practical Tips for Your Trip
Because Scala Dei is located in a rugged, mountainous area, a bit of planning goes a long way. Use these tips to ensure your trip is smooth and enjoyable.
How to Get There
Scala Dei is located in the province of Tarragona. The easiest way to reach it is by car. From Barcelona, the drive takes approximately two hours. From the city of Tarragona, it is about a 45-minute drive.
Public transportation to the village of Scala Dei is extremely limited. While there are trains to nearby towns like Reus or Falset, you will likely need a taxi or a rental car to reach the monastery and winery comfortably.
When to Visit
The best times to visit are in the spring (April to June) and the fall (September to October). During these months, the weather is mild, making it perfect for walking through the ruins or hiking in the nearby Montsant mountains.
If you visit in late September or early October, you might even witness the grape harvest, which is a busy and exciting time for the entire region.
What to Wear and Bring
- Comfortable Shoes: The monastery site involves a lot of walking on uneven stone and dirt paths.
- Sun Protection: The sun can be very strong in the Priorat, even in the cooler months. Bring a hat and sunscreen.
- Water: While there are small cafes in the village, it is always a good idea to have water with you while exploring the ruins.
- Reservations: Winery tours and some monastery tours require advance booking. Do not show up without a reservation if you want a guided experience.
Exploring the Surrounding Area
If you have extra time, the Priorat region has much more to offer. The village of Scala Dei itself is charming, with narrow streets and small shops selling local olive oil and honey. You might also consider visiting Herbarium Scala Dei, which focuses on natural remedies and traditional botanical products.
Another nearby highlight is the village of Siurana. Perched on a cliff overlooking a reservoir, it is often cited as one of the most beautiful villages in Spain. It is only a 30-minute drive from Scala Dei and offers breathtaking views and more historic sites.
Conclusion
A visit to Scala Dei is more than just a tourist stop; it is a journey into the soul of Catalonia. By exploring the silent ruins of the Cartoixa d’Escaladei and tasting the bold wines of Cellers de Scala Dei, you connect with a tradition that has survived for nearly a thousand years. The combination of spiritual history and agricultural excellence makes this one of the most rewarding day trips in Spain. Whether you are sipping a glass of Garnacha or standing in a monk’s ancient cell, the "Ladder to God" continues to inspire all who visit. For more guides on unique travel destinations and cultural history, explore our other helpful articles.